Icod de los Vinos
Where ancient legends meet wine tradition in Tenerife's historic north
Heart of Northern Tenerife
Located on Tenerife's northwest coast, Icod de los Vinos is a town steeped in history, culture, and undeniable charm. Its name is inseparably linked to the prehistoric dragon tree and rich winemaking tradition that have shaped its identity for centuries. This is where cobblestone streets, colonial architecture, and the aroma of wine tell the island's story from centuries past. From its sacred Guanche forests to its colonial wine trade, from the legendary dragon tree to volcanic caves, Icod offers a journey through time that captures the authentic spirit of northern Tenerife.
History, Legends, and Identity
Guanche Era
The name 'Icod' comes from the Guanche language, meaning 'place with forest' or 'tree/forest'. Before the Castilian arrival in the 15th century, this area was part of the menceyato (kingdom) of Icoden. Guanches valued the area for its fertile soils and natural resources.
Colonial Development
After Tenerife's conquest, Icod became an important agricultural and port center. Spanish settlers introduced new crops, particularly sugarcane, but wine became the main economic driver. The fertile volcanic soils favored viticulture, especially the prized Malvasia variety.
Dragon Tree Legend
The Dragon Tree held sacred significance for the Guanches. Its red resin ('dragon's blood') was used in medicine, rituals, and as dye. The tree symbolizes strength, longevity, and connection to the island's prehistoric past.
Modern Identity
While the port no longer serves its historic trading function, Icod's wine heritage remains crucial to its identity. The town preserves its colonial architecture, ancient dragon tree, and winemaking traditions while embracing sustainable tourism.
Main Attractions
Drago Milenario (Ancient Dragon Tree)
The living symbol of Icod and the Canary Islands, this Ancient Dragon Tree is believed to be 400-800 years old (though tradition suggests over 1,000). With its characteristic umbrella-shaped crown, it's the oldest and largest specimen of its species in the world. The tree is housed in Parque del Drago, a botanical garden showcasing endemic Canarian flora.
Admission: Adults approximately €5-6. Children receive discounts.
Parque del Drago, Calle la Constitución
You can see the tree for free from nearby Plaza and San Marcos Church, but the park visit offers close-up views and includes the botanical garden.
Cueva del Viento (Cave of the Wind)
One of the world's longest lava tunnels (over 17km explored) and Europe's longest. Formed during Pico Viejo volcano eruptions, it offers a fascinating journey into volcanic processes. Features diverse lava formations including lava stalactites, stalagmites, cascades, and terraces.
Difficulty: Guided tours only, 2-3 hours including transport. Physically demanding with uneven, slippery terrain. Not suitable for claustrophobia, mobility issues, young children (minimum age usually 5), or pregnant women.
Requirements: Good, closed hiking or sports shoes required. Helmets and flashlights provided.
Book well in advance - often weeks or months ahead. The tour is challenging but offers unique geological insights.
San Marcos Church
Impressive church dedicated to St. Mark the Evangelist, the town's patron saint. Built over centuries (main work in 17th century), it showcases a mix of styles with dominant Canarian baroque. Features an impressive façade, rich interior with carved altars, and the valuable Cruz de Plata (Silver Cross) - one of the finest examples of silverwork on the island.
Visit during mass times for the full experience. The silver cross is particularly impressive and represents the town's historic wealth.
Plaza Andrés de Lorenzo Cáceres
The main town square, heart of Icod. Surrounded by San Marcos Church, former monastery buildings, and elegant historic structures. A vibrant meeting place with benches, shady trees, and often views of Drago Milenario in the background.
Perfect spot to rest and observe local life. The surrounding colonial architecture offers excellent photo opportunities.
Colonial Architecture & Historic Center
Icod's historic center is a labyrinth of narrow cobblestone streets surrounded by well-preserved colonial buildings that testify to the town's former glory.
Walking through streets like Calle San Agustín or Calle Hércules (leading to the Dragon Tree) takes you back in time. The architecture features two- or three-story houses with white facades, often adorned with beautiful carved Canarian wooden balconies (balcones canarios). Many buildings are former merchant residences with internal courtyards (patios) that provide shade and coolness.
The colonial architecture reflects Icod's prosperity during the wine trade era, with merchant houses showcasing the wealth generated by Malvasia exports to Europe.
Culinary Recommendations
Icod offers many places to try traditional Canarian cuisine and fresh local products. The town's wine heritage also means excellent opportunities for wine tasting.
Taberna Cueva Del Viento
Despite the name referencing the cave, located closer to the town center
Specialties: Traditional Canarian dishes like papas arrugadas with mojo, carne de cabra (stewed goat), fresh fish
Atmosphere: Rustic, authentic village atmosphere
Restaurante El Monasterio
Located slightly outside the center on a hill, in a complex resembling a monastery
Specialties: Canarian and Spanish cuisine, grilled dishes, local specialties
Atmosphere: Beautiful views, perfect for a longer meal in pleasant surroundings
Casa del Drago Restaurante
Located near Parque del Drago, convenient for visitors to the dragon tree
Specialties: Canarian tapas and main dishes
Atmosphere: Quick, convenient dining before or after visiting the park
Dining Tip
Always check current reviews and locations on platforms like Google Maps or TripAdvisor before visiting. Many restaurants feature local wines - ask for recommendations to pair with your meal.
The Ancient Dragon Tree
The Drago Milenario stands as a living link to Tenerife's prehistoric past, revered by the Guanches and continuing to inspire awe today.
Sacred Significance
For Guanches, the tree was sacred. Its red resin, 'dragon's blood,' was used medicinally and in rituals.
Age Debate
While tradition suggests 1,000+ years, scientific estimates range from 400-800 years old.
World Record
Regardless of exact age, it's the oldest and largest dragon tree in the world.
Wine Heritage
Historic Wine Region
Icod de los Vinos has been producing wine since the 16th century. The region is particularly famous for Malvasia (especially sweet Malvasia Dulce), which was historically the island's export treasure. Main varieties include white Listán Blanco and red Listán Negro.
Volcanic Terroir
Local wines are characterized by mineral notes from volcanic soil. The unique terroir creates distinctive flavors that make Icod wines stand out among Canarian productions.
Wine Tourism
Many family bodegas offer tastings (catas) and cellar tours. While smaller-scale than commercial wine regions, these intimate experiences provide authentic insights into traditional winemaking.
Annual Festivities
Fiesta de San Andrés
End of November (around 29-30)
The most characteristic festival in Icod, inseparably linked with opening the new wine (vino nuevo). The highlight is 'arrastre de las tablas' - young people sliding down steep streets on oiled wooden boards, often accompanied by new wine. A boisterous, joyful celebration marking the end of the agricultural cycle.
One of Tenerife's most unique festivals. Expect crowds, wine, and a festive atmosphere. Book accommodation early if visiting during this time.
Fiesta del Drago
Usually in June
Dedicated to the town's symbol, this festival includes cultural events, music, and activities related to nature conservation and local flora.
Great opportunity to learn more about the ecological significance of dragon trees and local conservation efforts.
San Marcos Festival
Around April 25th
Celebrations honoring the town's patron saint with religious processions, traditional music, and local festivities.
Local Products
Goat Cheese
Excellent goat cheeses (queso de cabra), often smoked (queso ahumado) or aged (curado), with intense flavors that are central to Canarian cuisine.
Gofio
Roasted grain flour (corn, wheat, or mixed), a staple in Canarian diet since Guanche times. Used in soups, desserts, or simply mixed with milk.
Subtropical Fruits
The northern climate favors diverse fruits including Canarian bananas, avocados, mangoes, papayas, and local varieties of citrus and grapes.
Best bought at small local shops, markets, or directly from producers.
Practical Information
Getting There
Bus: TITSA buses from Puerto de la Cruz (line 363), Santa Cruz (108 or 101).
Car: Via TF-5 then local roads like TF-42 westward. Northern roads can be winding.
Parking
Public parking available, often underground, near the center. Street parking in center can be difficult.
Time Needed
Half day minimum for Parque del Drago, center, and wine tasting. Full day if including Cueva del Viento (2-3 hours).
Accessibility
Historic center relatively flat. Some streets steep. Cueva del Viento is physically demanding.
Why Visit Icod de los Vinos?
Icod de los Vinos captivates with its authenticity and wealth of experiences - from immersing yourself in prehistoric legends by the ancient Dragon Tree, through discovering volcanic secrets underground, to savoring volcanic wines and traditional cuisine. The town seamlessly blends natural wonders, colonial heritage, and living traditions. Whether you're drawn to the mystical dragon tree, the subterranean volcanic world, the historic wine culture, or simply the charm of its colonial streets, Icod offers an essential stop for anyone wanting to experience the true, historic soul of northern Tenerife.